A Retrospective Glance

Three months have passed since I returned to the States, and tonight I have been on a trip down memory lane courtesy of blogger.com. A blog is a wonderful tool for rekindling past emotions by transporting the mind back into history. How do I feel as I leave my September 2011 life, and time-travel back to May/June of this year? If I look retrospectively, is it easier to understand the value of the experience and what I learned from it?
The best way to learn about yourself is to be taken out of your normal routine, and your own culture. Being immersed in a culture that speaks a different language requires adaptation. The key to social acceptance is the visitor's use of that language. What starts as a self-conscious effort to greet someone in the street in German, becomes a self-confident effort by the end of the trip. Bakery assistants smiled and returned my greeting when I made the effort to ask in German, and eyes lit up when I added a short (very) comment about the weather! By making an effort, I broke down any preconceived ideas that exist about the inability of Americans to use any other language except their own.
My own ideas of accommodation also went through an adaptation process. I soon realized how much space a person really needs to live comfortably--and it certainly is nowhere near the space that is considered the norm in America. My studio apartment became the 'norm,' providing me with everything that I needed, and then some. It was large enough to have friends around for dinner, yet intimate enough for the times when I was its only inhabitant. The green space outside was large, communal, and perfectly adequate for enjoying the sunshine and relaxing. The excesses of my previous life soon gave way to the efficiency of German culture, and I did not suffer one iota!

The Finale

So, the end has come--the final group trip of the programme! The destinations today were Goerlitz and Bautzen. Goerlitz is on the eastern-most edge of Saxony, with half the town in Germany and half in Poland. The contrast in appearance of the two sides was shattering. Goerlitz in Germany is going through a major development initiative with the town being restored to reflect its historical past. Everywhere looks clean, is either newly painted or being newly painted. Once you cross the bridge over the river and onto the Polish side, nothing prepares you for the degenerated appearance of the buildings, the change in appearance of the people, and the general let down you feel at the contrast.

I also transitioned from a country where I feel comfortable with the language, can make myself understood in most situations, and feel totally at ease with the culture, to a foreign environment where the language is unknown and virtually unpronouncable for a tourist, where the culture is radically different, and where the general appearance of the town only increases the journey out of one's comfort zone. From an educational point of view, Dr. Gommlich could not have given us all a better example of how everywhere looked under the communist regime. Happily, Germany has the funds to renovate the former East German town of Goerlitz, but the Polish side of the town still acts as a reminder of the degenerative effect of the former political system.

What Next?

After a seriously energetic Ascension Day, the next day also began early with a train ride to Weimar.From there we caught a bus to Buchenwald, the concentration camp outside the city. Whilst visiting a concentration camp is not the happiest of experiences, it was certainly an education. Only parts of the camp are still standing, but it was still a disturbing feeling to think that I was standing inside an area where such atrocities had taken place. The museum houses any remaining artifacts from when the camp was operational, and the exhibits leave nothing to the imagination. I was glad to view the memorial sculpture that has been placed in a strategic location outside the camp where it is highly visible. There is no way it can be missed if you are traveling on the autobahn, on the river, or in the air, and it serves as a constant reminder of Germany's darkest hour, for all to see.
From there we looked around the historical city of Weimar before catching a train to a wonderful country inn in Muhlberg. If anyone has Germany in their plans, and the state of Thuringen in particular, I would suggest checking out the country inn where we stayed http://www.pension-schuetzenhof.de/en/index.html. The owner was so welcoming, the outdoor terrace so conducive to beer drinking and eating, that none of us would have wanted to miss this experience. And to top it all, the hike up to the Muhlburg (the ruined castle in Muhlberg) left from the back of the pension. When our outdoor dinner was finished, we all deemed it necessary to hike to the top of the hill, enjoy the fantastic views and watch the sun go down--a magic event.

It was good to see an example of a small German town after all the cities that we have visited. Muhlberg had many fine examples of Thuringen architecture which is different from that found in Saxony. The older buildings in Thuringen have exposed beams in their outer walls--similar to architecture that can be found in England. I guess we have to thank those invading Germanic tribes for that!

We left Muhlberg after an excellent typical German breakfast buffet:meats; cheeses; deliciously hot, fresh rolls, cereal, yoghurt, quark, coffee, multi-vitamin vegetable juice. You name it, it was on the buffet table!
The next stop on the weekend trip was Leipzig. The train ride was very pleasant and not too long. The highlight of the afternoon was a Bach choral concert in the Thomas Kirche where Johann Sebastian himself was once the Director of Music. Whilst we could all appreciate the beautiful music, the sermon in German was a bit of a struggle! Coupled with the intense heat, and the fact that we had enjoyed ourselves the night before on the terrace in Muhlberg, a few members of our group nodded off during this part of the concert!

After the concert we had the opportunity to wander around Leipzig and enjoy an Italian pizza at an open air restaurant, watching the world go by. We caught the 9pm train back to Dresden, arriving back at the student accommodation by 11pm. After such a lovely weekend, we all went our separate ways and enjoyed a good night's sleep before beginning our final week of the program on Monday morning.

Himmelfahrt Weekend

Well, my friends, I am sure that you are all looking at the title of the post and wondering what the heck "Himmelfahrt" is. Let me explain. In Germany, Ascension Day (Himmelfahrt - journey to the heavens) is a national holiday and, as luck would have it, this year the day after was also a holiday for all Dresdeners due to its being the venue of the National Church Convention 2011. As you can probably guess, the city was heaving with visitors from the lst June until 5th June so it was a good weekend to take a trip.
We celebrated our own personal "Himmelfahrt" courtesy of Dr. Gommlich by ascending to the top of Der Bastei near Rathen. Der Bastei is an amazing natural rock formation with commanding views over the whole Elbe Valley. The river snakes through green fields and small towns for as far as the eye can see from the pinnacle. At some stage in history, Der Bastei was a natural fortress that allowed the inhabitants an uninterrupted view of any Slavic tribes who might be planning a session of pillaging in Saxony.

The climb was a good workout, but definitely worth it and as for the ice cold pilsener with lunch, I don't think a lager ever tasted better! After our descent, we caught the ferry back over the river and then a train to Koenigstein where we visited the Koenigstein Fortress which dates back to 1241. The fortress has been used for many different purposes over the years. It was initially used as a safe retreat for the ruling families of Saxony when they were under threat, but was then converted into a prison, and finally handed over to the State as a national treasure.

My first impression was its resemblance to Colditz,but there is no mention in the brochure about its being used to house WWII prisoners of war. Following our visit, we descended into the town and purchased a mandatory bratwurst, roll, and senf from a street vendor before heading back to the station for our train to Dresden. The whole day was a very fitting tribute to "Himmelfahrt" as we all succeeded in completing two major ascents that gave us views over the Elbe Valley that were heavenly.

Mmmmmm Meissen!

As you probably all noted, my only negative opinion about Prague was the teaming crowds of tourists. The trip to the city of Meissen made me realize just how beautiful a medieval city can be without all the throngs of people. Meissen was just perfect: much more personal, just as rich architecturally, and just as steeped in history.

As we left the station and walked towards the city, our heads simultaneously looked skyward and saw the magnificent Albrechtsburg that dominates the hillside. Construction of the castle began in 1471 and in 1710 the famous Meissen porcelain began to be manufactured in a section of the castle. The manufactory remained there until it moved to its present location in 1863.To the rear of the castle you can see the Meissen Dom, a wonderful example of Gothic architecture.
We all joined the short line to purchase a ticket to view all the historical buildings in the town. We had been assured by Dr. Gommlich that we would get a half-price ticket if we showed our University of Dresden student ID and this time it worked--no age discrimination in Germany. (Unlike Prague where I got to the front of the long line to be told that I was not eligible for the student rate, even though I am a bona fide registered student at TUD, because I am slightly over the age of 26!!).
We were assured by our wonderful tour guide that it was mandatory to take part in a private wine-tasting in a little wine restaurant in the town, prior to our hike up the steep cobbled streets to the Dom and Albrechtsburg. We each took one glass of the local white wine from the tray and headed to the back of the restaurant where there was a lovely terrace. Fortunately, there were just enough tables and chairs for our little group and we sat outside, surrounded by vines, hydrangeas, roses, and geraniums, and enjoyed our chilled wine before completing our journey.

The Meissen Dom was built between the years of 1260 and 1410 and had the two spires added in the beginning of 20th Century. The inside is very beautiful and we discovered that there are services there every Sunday at noon, and organ recitals every weekday at noon. I am hoping to be able to listen to one of the recitals and perhaps attend a Sunday service there. It will all depend on whether we are given any free time between now and the end of our stay.

Our next stop was inside the Albrechtsburg which contains a wealth of historical objects and I came out of it suffering from information overload. Sadly, there was an added cost to take photos inside, and so I cannot show you any examples of the ornately painted interior walls. You will just have to accept my word that they were magnificent, or find the webpage and check if it shows any photos of the interior.
By the time we came out it was already early evening, so we headed down to the main square to find a place to eat.

Let's just say that Meissen holds a very special place in my heart and it is definitely "aufwiedersehen" because I WILL return!

Aaah Prague!

Sean told me that he and Jen both thought that Prague was a beautiful city, and I have to agree with them. Its saving grace is that it was not damaged in WWII and so all the historical buildings--some of which date back to the 12th Century--are still intact. The Czechs have invested heavily in their maintenance and it shows. Let me take you on a short journey through this beautiful city.

We followed this signpost to reach our first destination--the city castle--which has a magnificent view over the whole city. When the President is in residence, the flag is flying and it was for our visit.

The view is quite breathtaking, as was the climb up there! You can see right over the whole city with its distinctive red tiled roofs. The Castle itself is full of beautiful antiques and information about the city's history. It is well worth a visit if you ever get the chance.
Next stop is St. Vitas Cathedral, the spiritual symbol of the Czech state. It is a Gothic masterpiece that was commissioned by Charles IV in 1344 but only completed in 1929.

The inside of the cathedral is also astoundingly beautiful with its richly colored stained glass windows, intricate stonemasonry, and beautiful fresh flowers everywhere. And, to top it all, whilst we were there a choir was practicing, their voices adding another element to the building's spirituality. We moved on from St. Vitas down the narrow cobbled streets in search of a typical Czech-style lunch. At the end of a little passageway, we found a small covered area where we were served a nice cold glass of Czech beer, accompanied by a delicious goulash with Czech style dumplings. After all the climbing and walking, lunch was a welcome respite!
No visit to Prague is complete without a walk across the famous Charles Bridge. The construction of this bridge began in 1357 and was only finished in the 15th century. At that time it was the only means of getting across the Vltava River. Sadly, for me, it is really commercialized during the day, with street vendors lining both sides of the bridge selling their wares. If you would prefer a more realistic link with the past, I would suggest walking the bridge at night when all the vendors have gone home. Then you can really enjoy the view up and down the river and appreciate the architectural beauty of the bridge itself.

We stayed on the bridge for quite a while, enjoying the sunshine and the view down the river, and listening to all the different languages that were being spoken by the tourists. This tourist stop is a Mecca for visitors from all over the world!

Our day came to a close with a walk through the new city (relatively speaking). This area was constructed during the industrial revolution and is on the other side of the Charles Bridge. It also had its historical markers, the most famous one being the statue of Saint Vaclav or Wenceslaus (Wenceslas of our own Christmas carol) which dominates Wenceslaus Square.

Sadly, our day in Prague came to an end way too quickly. Should you ever get the chance to visit, a long weekend would be a perfect amount of time. It would give you the opportunity to enjoy the sights, the museums, the concerts, and the restaurants and I am sure that you would be just as impressed with this beautiful city as I was.

Weekend in Berlin and Potsdam

After a week of lesson planning, observing, and teaching, Berlin here we come! My sister who had flown in from London, joined us all at the Hauptbahnhof and off we went.
After checking into our very satisfactory hostel, we headed out for an Italian meal about 200 yds away. Our painting the town red would have to wait for the next night, as after dinner we collapsed in a heap in our room, and prepared ourselves for the Dr. Gommlich March around Berlin the next day.
It was a good job that we had prepared ourselves because the next day's tourist adventure began at 9.30am and ended at 12am. I think we saw every historical, political, social edifice in Berlin (plus tasting the good beer).

Just like many other cities in Germany, there is a lot of history that would be easy to sweep under the table because of the shame, but in each city we have visited so far the Jewish history is very openly displayed--Berlin being no exception. The photo above is the remains of the station through which thousands of Jews were transported to concentration camps. Outside the area is a large plaque detailing the year of transportation and the number of people who were removed from Berlin.

Many years after WWII, Germany commissioned an American artist to create a memorial to those who perished in the camps. The memorial is very symbolic: the blocks are various sizes of dull, gray, concrete signifying the different ages of the victims; the pathways in-between the blocks undulate and have road markings on them to represent the long, hard, march that the inmates experienced. The overall grayness of the monument, and the solitary tree, echo the dullness and monotony of life in the camps where neither love nor beauty existed. The claustrophobic atmosphere of the gaps between the gray blocks reflected the atmosphere in the camps where there was little chance of escape. I am sure that the artist thought long and hard about how make the memorial representative of the Jews' journey from freedom, to discrimination, and finally incarceration.

On to a happier note: Berlin is a very interesting city. It is situated on a river and is a mix of old and new. Remnants of the Wall have been left as a reminder of a time best forgotten, and it is still possible to have your passport stamped with the same stamps that were used on the passports of those who were allowed to cross from West to East and vice versa.
What better way to spend an hour of rest and relaxation, after a 5 hour Dr. Gommlich guided walking tour, than on a boat sauntering down the River Spree. We could have learned a lot from the guide on the boat if only he had known English (a potential customer for all we soon-to-be TEFL certificate holders!) However, everyone was glad to be able to sit down before the tour continued.

We eventually got back to the neighborhood near our hostel around 9pm and headed to the Sony Center to grab a well-deserved meal and some nice, cold, beer.
Our hostel (the more than adequate one) was aptly names "Three Little Pigs Hostel" and Debs and I were wondering whether "a huff, and a puff, would blow the house down" but luckily it didn't.
We left it early on Sunday morning for a train ride to Potsdam to visit Schloss Sanssouci, the summer palace of Frederick the Great of Prussia. It was well worth the visit! The sheer opulence of the grounds and buildings certainly made us realize the wealth of the Prussian Kings in the 18th century. One palace was purely for the staff that were needed to ensure that enough food was prepared, served, and cleared and that the palaces were cleaned and the grounds maintained.

This photo is of the main palace (of three). It was built on a hill with a magnificent view of the plebs going about their daily lives in the town. Frederick the Great was rather partial to wine and figs, and the terraces at the front of the palace are still strewn with vines and espaliered figs that provide a great first impression on the journey up to the front of the palace.
After our visit, we caught a tram to the old Dutch area of Potsdam that housed the artisans brought in by Frederick's minions to help build the Palace. The whole area has been renovated and now houses cute little shops, restaurants, and townhouses inside the Dutch-style buildings.
After lunch, we headed back to Berlin Hauptbahnhof where we caught the first of two trains back to Dresden.
So now it's back to the grindstone for another week and then............. Prague.