Mmmmmm Meissen!

As you probably all noted, my only negative opinion about Prague was the teaming crowds of tourists. The trip to the city of Meissen made me realize just how beautiful a medieval city can be without all the throngs of people. Meissen was just perfect: much more personal, just as rich architecturally, and just as steeped in history.

As we left the station and walked towards the city, our heads simultaneously looked skyward and saw the magnificent Albrechtsburg that dominates the hillside. Construction of the castle began in 1471 and in 1710 the famous Meissen porcelain began to be manufactured in a section of the castle. The manufactory remained there until it moved to its present location in 1863.To the rear of the castle you can see the Meissen Dom, a wonderful example of Gothic architecture.
We all joined the short line to purchase a ticket to view all the historical buildings in the town. We had been assured by Dr. Gommlich that we would get a half-price ticket if we showed our University of Dresden student ID and this time it worked--no age discrimination in Germany. (Unlike Prague where I got to the front of the long line to be told that I was not eligible for the student rate, even though I am a bona fide registered student at TUD, because I am slightly over the age of 26!!).
We were assured by our wonderful tour guide that it was mandatory to take part in a private wine-tasting in a little wine restaurant in the town, prior to our hike up the steep cobbled streets to the Dom and Albrechtsburg. We each took one glass of the local white wine from the tray and headed to the back of the restaurant where there was a lovely terrace. Fortunately, there were just enough tables and chairs for our little group and we sat outside, surrounded by vines, hydrangeas, roses, and geraniums, and enjoyed our chilled wine before completing our journey.

The Meissen Dom was built between the years of 1260 and 1410 and had the two spires added in the beginning of 20th Century. The inside is very beautiful and we discovered that there are services there every Sunday at noon, and organ recitals every weekday at noon. I am hoping to be able to listen to one of the recitals and perhaps attend a Sunday service there. It will all depend on whether we are given any free time between now and the end of our stay.

Our next stop was inside the Albrechtsburg which contains a wealth of historical objects and I came out of it suffering from information overload. Sadly, there was an added cost to take photos inside, and so I cannot show you any examples of the ornately painted interior walls. You will just have to accept my word that they were magnificent, or find the webpage and check if it shows any photos of the interior.
By the time we came out it was already early evening, so we headed down to the main square to find a place to eat.

Let's just say that Meissen holds a very special place in my heart and it is definitely "aufwiedersehen" because I WILL return!

Aaah Prague!

Sean told me that he and Jen both thought that Prague was a beautiful city, and I have to agree with them. Its saving grace is that it was not damaged in WWII and so all the historical buildings--some of which date back to the 12th Century--are still intact. The Czechs have invested heavily in their maintenance and it shows. Let me take you on a short journey through this beautiful city.

We followed this signpost to reach our first destination--the city castle--which has a magnificent view over the whole city. When the President is in residence, the flag is flying and it was for our visit.

The view is quite breathtaking, as was the climb up there! You can see right over the whole city with its distinctive red tiled roofs. The Castle itself is full of beautiful antiques and information about the city's history. It is well worth a visit if you ever get the chance.
Next stop is St. Vitas Cathedral, the spiritual symbol of the Czech state. It is a Gothic masterpiece that was commissioned by Charles IV in 1344 but only completed in 1929.

The inside of the cathedral is also astoundingly beautiful with its richly colored stained glass windows, intricate stonemasonry, and beautiful fresh flowers everywhere. And, to top it all, whilst we were there a choir was practicing, their voices adding another element to the building's spirituality. We moved on from St. Vitas down the narrow cobbled streets in search of a typical Czech-style lunch. At the end of a little passageway, we found a small covered area where we were served a nice cold glass of Czech beer, accompanied by a delicious goulash with Czech style dumplings. After all the climbing and walking, lunch was a welcome respite!
No visit to Prague is complete without a walk across the famous Charles Bridge. The construction of this bridge began in 1357 and was only finished in the 15th century. At that time it was the only means of getting across the Vltava River. Sadly, for me, it is really commercialized during the day, with street vendors lining both sides of the bridge selling their wares. If you would prefer a more realistic link with the past, I would suggest walking the bridge at night when all the vendors have gone home. Then you can really enjoy the view up and down the river and appreciate the architectural beauty of the bridge itself.

We stayed on the bridge for quite a while, enjoying the sunshine and the view down the river, and listening to all the different languages that were being spoken by the tourists. This tourist stop is a Mecca for visitors from all over the world!

Our day came to a close with a walk through the new city (relatively speaking). This area was constructed during the industrial revolution and is on the other side of the Charles Bridge. It also had its historical markers, the most famous one being the statue of Saint Vaclav or Wenceslaus (Wenceslas of our own Christmas carol) which dominates Wenceslaus Square.

Sadly, our day in Prague came to an end way too quickly. Should you ever get the chance to visit, a long weekend would be a perfect amount of time. It would give you the opportunity to enjoy the sights, the museums, the concerts, and the restaurants and I am sure that you would be just as impressed with this beautiful city as I was.

Weekend in Berlin and Potsdam

After a week of lesson planning, observing, and teaching, Berlin here we come! My sister who had flown in from London, joined us all at the Hauptbahnhof and off we went.
After checking into our very satisfactory hostel, we headed out for an Italian meal about 200 yds away. Our painting the town red would have to wait for the next night, as after dinner we collapsed in a heap in our room, and prepared ourselves for the Dr. Gommlich March around Berlin the next day.
It was a good job that we had prepared ourselves because the next day's tourist adventure began at 9.30am and ended at 12am. I think we saw every historical, political, social edifice in Berlin (plus tasting the good beer).

Just like many other cities in Germany, there is a lot of history that would be easy to sweep under the table because of the shame, but in each city we have visited so far the Jewish history is very openly displayed--Berlin being no exception. The photo above is the remains of the station through which thousands of Jews were transported to concentration camps. Outside the area is a large plaque detailing the year of transportation and the number of people who were removed from Berlin.

Many years after WWII, Germany commissioned an American artist to create a memorial to those who perished in the camps. The memorial is very symbolic: the blocks are various sizes of dull, gray, concrete signifying the different ages of the victims; the pathways in-between the blocks undulate and have road markings on them to represent the long, hard, march that the inmates experienced. The overall grayness of the monument, and the solitary tree, echo the dullness and monotony of life in the camps where neither love nor beauty existed. The claustrophobic atmosphere of the gaps between the gray blocks reflected the atmosphere in the camps where there was little chance of escape. I am sure that the artist thought long and hard about how make the memorial representative of the Jews' journey from freedom, to discrimination, and finally incarceration.

On to a happier note: Berlin is a very interesting city. It is situated on a river and is a mix of old and new. Remnants of the Wall have been left as a reminder of a time best forgotten, and it is still possible to have your passport stamped with the same stamps that were used on the passports of those who were allowed to cross from West to East and vice versa.
What better way to spend an hour of rest and relaxation, after a 5 hour Dr. Gommlich guided walking tour, than on a boat sauntering down the River Spree. We could have learned a lot from the guide on the boat if only he had known English (a potential customer for all we soon-to-be TEFL certificate holders!) However, everyone was glad to be able to sit down before the tour continued.

We eventually got back to the neighborhood near our hostel around 9pm and headed to the Sony Center to grab a well-deserved meal and some nice, cold, beer.
Our hostel (the more than adequate one) was aptly names "Three Little Pigs Hostel" and Debs and I were wondering whether "a huff, and a puff, would blow the house down" but luckily it didn't.
We left it early on Sunday morning for a train ride to Potsdam to visit Schloss Sanssouci, the summer palace of Frederick the Great of Prussia. It was well worth the visit! The sheer opulence of the grounds and buildings certainly made us realize the wealth of the Prussian Kings in the 18th century. One palace was purely for the staff that were needed to ensure that enough food was prepared, served, and cleared and that the palaces were cleaned and the grounds maintained.

This photo is of the main palace (of three). It was built on a hill with a magnificent view of the plebs going about their daily lives in the town. Frederick the Great was rather partial to wine and figs, and the terraces at the front of the palace are still strewn with vines and espaliered figs that provide a great first impression on the journey up to the front of the palace.
After our visit, we caught a tram to the old Dutch area of Potsdam that housed the artisans brought in by Frederick's minions to help build the Palace. The whole area has been renovated and now houses cute little shops, restaurants, and townhouses inside the Dutch-style buildings.
After lunch, we headed back to Berlin Hauptbahnhof where we caught the first of two trains back to Dresden.
So now it's back to the grindstone for another week and then............. Prague.

Schloss Pillnitz

Today's cultural education took the form of a trip on the tram, bus, and ferry to Schloss Pillnitz the 18th Century home of Friedrich August (The Strong).The palace buildings were extensive with one building bordering the Elbe, one bordering the Hill, and the remainder forming three sides of the quadrant garden.
The gardens were theme based: one French style, one English style with a large pavilion for retiring to for tea (and maybe a bit of crumpet) when Friedrich August got the urge!

The opulence of the lifestyle for the rich and famous in the 18th century was evident on the whole property. Manicured gardens were reached by riding down a long tree-lined driveway, and the accommodation provided for the courtiers and various other hangers-on was massive. The architecture and gardens were heavily influenced by Asia: there is even an orangerie and a 200-year old camelia tree for which a wooden house was erected annually to protect it from the German winters! (Nowadays it is protected by a large mobile greenhouse which the gardeners slide away in the summer). The central quadrant houses a large fountain and ornamental garden, both of which provide an impressive introduction to anyone's arrival at the Schloss.

We took a long walk to the bus stop that took us to a suspension bridge over the Elbe where the view was most impressive.

Today we were all given an insight into how the rich and famous lived during the 18th century in Saxony, Germany, leaving us all well aware of the opulence of life on the right side of the social divide.

Dresden

I arrived safely in Dresden on Friday and the International Guest House is now my home. My studio apartment is far nicer than expected with its own little kitchen and bathroom, as well as a massive picture window that looks over a treed lawn. It is amazing how little space one really needs to be quite comfortable.
Dresden is a wonderful mix of old and new. The reconstructed Altstadt recalls the past with its massive open cobbled platzes filled with people drinking coffee, tea, or beer at the outdoor cafes. The beautiful historic buildings house art museums, churches, hotels, the opera and a ballet. The whole place is a cultural hotspot.

The city area caters to both pedestrians and cyclists, but for the less active there are always the trams or city buses. It is wonderful to see everywhere alive with people enjoying the sunshine and the physical activity of walking or cycling.
The Frauenkirche is magnificent. The decorative murals took my breath away and I took it all in sitting silently in the pews and gazing at the sheer magnificence of the ornately decorated gilt altar.

The start of my KSU practicum is very impressive, however the work begins in earnest on Monday!

England

Back in the land of my birth enjoying sunshine and relaxation at my sister's. It's hard to believe that the time for my TEFL practicum is almost here. I leave for Dresden tomorrow and four weeks of student life in International House (will they call me Grandma?!).
Will post some photos of Dresden over the weekend to keep everyone up-to-speed on my adventures.